Categories: Restaurants St. Louis History
The Hill - St. Louis's Little Italy
Author: Beth M. Custer
In St. Louis, the area known as The Hill is synonymous with great Italian food.
Italian cuisine is the city's inheritance from the thousands of immigrants who settled on The Hill, and is a prominent part of local culture. In this part of town, just south of Forest Park, restaurateurs bring their native country's flavors to life.
This Italian-American neighborhood was built on high ground, close to the highest point in St. Louis. Newcomers were attracted by nearby clay deposits, which were used to manufacture bricks and provided work for many newly-arrived immigrants.
The area has retained its ethnic character. Many Italian restaurants are located here, from mom and pop bakeries to the most upscale, nationally known dining establishments. The neighborhood's brick bungalows have their own character, and the fire hydrants, painted in red, white, and green stripes, signal pride in the Italian flag.
If you would like to learn more about The Hill, consider the following books, which do a fine job of describing the area and its residents:
The Game of Their Lives by Geoffrey Douglas is based on the true story of an inexperienced American soccer team that manages a stunning win over the British champions at the 1950 World Cup. The team includes five working class Italian-American men from The Hill. The 2003 movie of the same name was shot on location in St. Louis; many locals worked on the film as extras.
A.E. Hotchner's King of the Hill is the story of a young boy growing up in Depression-era St. Louis. Much of the action takes place near Kingshighway and Delmar Boulevard, with several mentions of Forest Park; residents will recognize descriptions of Kirkwood and Creve Coeur. In one memorable scene, Charles Lindbergh flies the Spirit of St. Louis under the Eads Bridge, to the delight of hundreds of school children. In 1993 the book was made into a movie directed by Steven Soderbergh and shot on location in St. Louis.
The Hill: Its History - Its Recipes by Eleanore Berra Marfisi is both an introduction to the superior Italian restaurants on The Hill, and a cookbook filled with treasured family recipes.
DINING ON THE HILL
Restaurants on The Hill boast a well-deserved reputation for fabulous Italian dining. Have dinner at one of these popular restaurants and see what we mean.
Mama Campisi's (2132 Edwards, 314-776-3100) is a historic restaurant and a landmark on The Hill. House specialties like Parmigiana di Melanzane (fresh slices of eggplant dusted with bread crumbs, deep fried, and then topped with a marinara sauce and provel cheese and baked until golden brown) and Vitello Saltimbocca (veal topped with prosciutto ham and provel cheese, in a white wine mushroom sauce) will make your mouth water. The menu boasts a large selection of pastas and sandwiches, as well as steak and seafood selections. Desserts like Cannoli and Tiramisu provide a perfectly sweet ending. Website: www.mamcampisis.com.
LoRusso's Cucina (3121 Watson, 314-647-6222) proudly serves up "not your usual Italian" fare. Treat yourself to a plateful of Ziti Con Vodka or immerse your palate in Horseradish Encrusted Salmon. Top off your evening at this veteran restaurant of 20 years with a bottle from their extensive wine list. Website: www.lorussos.com.
Cunetto House of Pasta (5433 Magnolia, 314-781-1135) is no misnomer with over 30 pasta choices. For over 30 years, loyal customers on The Hill have enjoyed traditional Italian fare. Sandwiches include salsiccia parmigiano, saucy meatball, and the Giganti, which piles ham and salami on fresh baked Italian bread. Website: www.cunetto.com.
Zia's (5356 Wilson, 314-776-0020), which means "Aunt's" in Italian, offers an inviting atmosphere that is reminiscent of warm meals in the comfort of home. Toasted Ravioli, Parmiagiana di Melanzane, and the Zia's house salad keep customers coming back. Their special house dressing is packaged for purchase. Website: www.zias.com.
Rigazzi's (4945 Daggett, 314-772-4900) is the oldest restaurant in the historical Hill neighborhood, and is known for savory pastas, toasted ravioli, awesome service, and generous servings of beer. Lovingly referred to as a "fishbowl," this tap beer glass will take both hands. Website: www.rigazzis.com.
Lorenzo's Trattoria (1933 Edwards, 314-773-2223) tempts patrons with appetizing dishes from Northern Italy. While The Hill is not short on Italian restaurants, Lorenzo's offers choices beyond the traditional. House specialties include braised ossobuco, chicken spedini, and provimi veal marsala. Although the outdoor seating area is small, dining al fresco at Lorenzo's allows patrons the chance to experience the neighbrohood's old-world charm. Website: www.lorenzostrattoria.com.
Dominic's Restaurant (5101 Wilson, 314-771-1632) is the prized gem among restaurants on The Hill for many, an upscale spot that draws long-time regulars with its elegant decor, top-notch service and, oh yes, sumptuous foods that burst with flavor. The cuisine is formal, traditional Italian, and is served European style with a first course (usually a pasta; not to be passed up) and an entree. The full menu is mind-boggling--Zuppa di pesce and several veal dishes are favorites--as is the extensive wine list.
Gian-Tony's Ristorante (5536 Daggett, 314-772-4893) is run by Italian-born Tony Catarinicchia, who came from Sicily for a visit more than 30 years ago, and decided to stay and make a life here. One of the only restaurants on The Hill that's open seven days a week for dinner, Gian-Tony's touts tempting Italian specialties with Sicilian flavor. Menu highlights include Vitello Alla Marsala and Pollo Alla Parmigiana.
At Guido's Pizzeria & Tapas (5046 Shaw Avenue, 314-771-4900), delicious pizza and Italian staples are offered. The owners came here from Madrid and established smaller pizza restaurants around town before they fell in love with their current location on Shaw Avenue. Guido's extensive hours of operation (seven days a week) and convenient location adjacent to I-44 make it the perfect stop after a day at the nearby Missouri Botanical Garden or following a game at Busch Stadium.
ASK RICH!
Editor's Note: Rich LoRusso, President of The Hill Business Association, is also chef-owner of LoRusso's Cucina. As a long-time resident of The Hill, he is happy to answer your questions about the culture and history of this well-known neighborhood.
Dear Rich,
I've been to wonderful Italian restaurants on The Hill several times. I've looked around, but I haven't seen any hills in the landscape. Where, exactly, is "the hill"? --E.C., Edwardsville, Illinois
Dear E.C.,
The Hill got it's name from the steep grade coming up Macklind Avenue from Manchester Road to Southwest Avenue. Many immigrants worked in the brick yards of foundries located next to the River Des Peres, which runs parallel to Manchester Road. The steep grade was a struggle for the men whose day consisted of heavy manual labor. The top of Macklind Avenue stops at Arsenal at the impressive State Hospital, built in the 1850's. The steel dome of the hospital was designed by the same architect who designed the dome on the Old Courthouse, and sits at the highest elevation in St. Louis. --Rich
Check out places of interest near The Hill - St. Louis's Little Italy:
Amighetti's
5141 Wilson Avenue,
St. Louis, MO 63110
Affordable and freshly baked Italian bread, pizza and sandwiches are served at this well-established eatery in the Italian Hill neighborhood.
Dominic's Trattoria
5101 Wilson Ave.,
St. Louis, MO 63110
Dominic's Trattoria is a St. Louis fixture, located on the Hill and offering fine Italian food in a regal setting.
Giovanni's On The Hill
5201 Shaw Ave.,
St. Louis, MO 63110
Giovanni's On The Hill is the a premier Italian restaurant offering authentic cuisine in a cozy atmosphere.
Luciano's Trattoria
172 Carondelet Plaza,
Clayton, MO 63105
Classic fine dining, Italian style, with hearty pasta dishes and wood oven pizza.
Mama Campisi's
2132 Edwards (at Bischoff),
St. Louis, MO 63110
Mama Campisi’s is a historic restaurant and a landmark on The Hill, St. Louis’s famous Italian neighborhood. House specialties like Parmigiana di Melanzane and Vitello Saltimbocca will make your mouth water. The menu boasts a large selection of pastas and sandwiches, as well as steak and seafood selections.
