Categories: Restaurants

At The Table: Pizza History Chicago-Style

Author: Jody Robbins

Chicago is obviously home to deep dish, sauce-on-top, Chicago-style pizza. Still, says Pizano's Pizza & Pasta owner Rudy Malnati, Jr., "Everybody likes different kinds of pizza. Chicago pizza is what it is, but there are lots of good thin-bread pizzas here, too.

"It depends on what you're looking for, a down-to-earth, meat-and-potatoes-type pizza or a designer pizza; I think there's room for both, but they are two different products," says Malnati, noting, "it takes Chicago water to make Chicago-style pizza; that's just the way it is."

He should know, as his father, Rudy Malnati, St., was one of the pioneers of Chicago-style pizza, opening Pizzeria Uno in 1943 and thereby making a meal of pizza. "Rick Ricardo pushed the spark and he worked at Pizzeria Uno," says Malnati. "When the property became available, it was Ricardo's building and he wanted to start a pizzeria.

"Where they get this story screwed up is that my dad was a bartender at Ricardo's, not Pizzeria Uno," continues Malnati. "When Pizzeria Uno opened, it was Pizzeria Ricardo, but they couldn't sell the pizza, so they stood on the corner and gave it away, handing slices out for people to try--deep dish was uneard of at the time.

Another integral player, Ike Sewell, wasn't involved until later, but his wife, Florence, was a silent partner from the beginning. "I don't think Ike got involved until he retired in the late 1960s and 1970s," says Malnati. "Just my father and Florence were the partners there after Rick passed away--and the rest is history."

Charting his own course, the junior Malnati struck out on his own, family tradition or not: "I saw that people liked the thin crust. People looked at our pizza as a very filling product and they could eat one piece, or two at the most," he says. "Then, thin crust popped up and there are a lot of pioneers in thin crust pizza in Chicago--Home Run Inn, Colletti's had one of the first thin crusts, and Nick and Vito's.

"At first, my mother asked, 'Why are you messing around with this when your father invented Chicago deep dish pizza?', remember Malnati. "Then, she tried it and liked it, so we opened Pizano's in 1991. We feature great food steeped in Italian tradition, skillfully prepared from the highest-quality ingredients, and served in an inviting atmosphere in which to celebrate friendship and family."

Speaking of family, you'd think the Malnati family lived on pizza; not so. "Growing up, you would think my family would have pizza once a week, but it was more like once a year," says Malnati. "We'd go to the Shrine Circus at the Medinah Temple and we'd go across the street for pizza and it was a big deal."

For Chicagoans and visitors to the city alike, getting a taste of Chicago pizza is a must and it's not easy to make. "The deep dish pizza is hard to handle; you have to do it right from beginning to end, from making the dough to ensuring the crust rises correctly. The difference with us is that my 81-year-old mother makes all the dough for the restaurants where others have multiple people making dough," says Malnati.

The Pizano's Pizza & Pasta legacy is still expanding with Malnati opening his latest location in suburban Glenview in late 2007, and, yes, mom is still making the dough.

Check out places of interest near At The Table: Pizza History Chicago-Style:

Alinea
1723 N. Halsted St., Chicago, IL 60614

Chef/owner Grant Achatz's Alinea has quickly proven itself one of America's most unusual, provocative, challenging, and sought-after restaurants.

Chicago's Pizza and Pasta
3114 N. Lincoln, Chicago , IL 60657

Chicago's Pizza and Pasta offers a wide array of pizza and pasta items for lunch, dinner and dessert. 

 

Crofton on Wells
888 N. Wabash Ave., Chicago, IL 60611

This contemporary American restaurant headed by executive chef Suzy Crofton, a long-time and much-acclaimed Chicago chef. Expert a nicely balanced menu pulling on French and other influences in style and with an emphasis on organic ingredients.

Devon Seafood Grill
39 E. Chicago Ave, Chicago, IL 60611

Selecting only the best aquatic cuisine, Devon Seafood Grill features creative dishes from Chef Scott Barrow.

Il Mulino
1150 N. Dearborn St., Chicago, IL 60610

This high-level Italian fine-dining spot isn't cheap, but you get what you pay for. Set in the Gold Coast neighborhood a couple blocks away from the Rush Street nightlife scene, it's impressive for a date or a business dinner.

Kohan Japanese Restaurant
730 W. Maxwell St., Chicago, IL 60607

Sushi and traditional Japanese dishes are offered in an authentic, but laid-back setting.

 

Pizano's Pizza and Pasta
864 N. State St, Chicago, IL 60610

Pizano's is a relative newcomer to the Chicago pizza scene--they opened in 1991--the Malnati family has been involved with the pizza business since 1943.

Pizano's Pizza and Pasta
61 E. Madison St., Chicago, IL 60603

Thin, deep dish, or pastas are available at this classic Italian eatery. 

 

Pizano's Pizza and Pasta
1808 N. Waukegan Rd., Glenview, IL 60025

The latest addition to the Pizano's family has opened up at this Glenview location. 

 

Pompei Pizza
2955 N. Sheffield Ave., Chicago, IL 60657

Pompeii Pizza offers a variety of pizzas, pastas, and desserts.

 

R.J. Grunts
2056 N. Lincoln Park W, Chicago, IL 60614

A comfortable atmosphere with American fare is served at this historic restaurant--historic because it was the very first Lettuce Entertain You restaurant, the company founded by culinary entrepreneur Rich Melman. Another interesting note is that R.J. Grunts was the original restaurant to establish the theme that has been followed by other, more commercial "flair" restaurants.

 

Ra Sushi
1139 N. State St., Chicago, IL 60610

This outpost of Ra, a chain of contemporary, if somewhat commercial, sushi restaurants, is conveniently located along Steakhouse Row in the Viagara Triangle area of the Gold Coast--a lighter alternative to the heavier fare nearby.

 

Ra Sushi
310 Yorktown Center, Lombard, IL 60148

Located in the new and fabulous Shops on Butterfield, this latest RA Sushi location has happy hour Monday through Friday 4-7.

Rainforest Cafe
605 N. Clark St., Chicago, IL 60610

Kids love this restaurant. The menu contains a mish-mash of fusion fare, but the real attraction to this scene is the tropical fauna and animals feigning life through mechanistic motions.

Ranalli's
1522 W. Montrose Ave., Chicago, IL 60613

Ranalli's
2301 N. Clark St, Chicago, IL 60614

Red Light
820 W. Randolph St, Chicago, IL 60607

A pan-Asian eatery with a focus on seafood and vegetarian dishes.

 

RL
115 E. Chicago Ave. , Chicago, IL 60611

All the sophistication of Ralph Lauren and his style-making career come into play at this Mag Mile restaurant. American fare is served and executed by the kitchen at a high level. Service is always on its game and the hanging-everywhere art collection is all over the place and featureds some of Lauren's personal collection.

Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery
1 W. Grand Ave., Chicago, IL 60610

This Chicago brewpub is an outpost of the nationwide chain; the top draw here is the rotating selection of handcrafted beers brewed on-site.

Rockit Bar & Grill
22 W. Hubbard St., Chicago, IL 60610

Stylish yet comfortable, this River North bar and grill puts a twist on American favorites. Expect to hear some classic rock music as the name implies and take in the old album cover-jacketed menus.

Roditys
222 S. Halsted St., Chicago, IL 60661

One of Chicago's long standing Greek restaurant, expect classics and old school service, as well.

 

Room 21
2110 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago, IL 60605

Room 21, late-night dining/drinking spot dripping with the mystique of Al Capone and Chicago's old red light district, is the latest outpost from colorful restaurant mogul Jerry Kleiner.

RoSal's Cucina
1154 W. Taylor St., Chicago, IL 60607

This contemporary Southern Italian restaurant features dishes like broccoli and shells, chicken cacciatore, eggplant Parmesan and spinach lasagna.

Roy's
720 N. State St., Chicago, IL 60610

This Hawaiian fusion spot has outposts all over the world. It serves American cuisine with a Hawaiian cultural viewpoint.

 

Russian Tea Time
77 E. Adams St., Chicago, IL 60603

This full-of-frills tea house has been giving visitors to Chicago a taste of Russian culinary luxury for years now; a great spot for a special meal or snack with that special someone.

 

Saloon Steakhouse
200 E. Chestnut St., Chicago, IL 60611

A top Chicago steakhouse right off Michigan Avenue, expect a classic steakhouse when you stop in here. It's not all about the steaks, though; expect lighter choices, as well.

Salpicon
1252 N. Wells St, Chicago, IL 60614

This eatery serves contemporary Mexican fare in a colorful and cozy dining room, plus there's outdoor dining in the form of a covered sidewalk cafe in the summer months. Executive chef Priscilla Satkoff turns out some of the best Mexian and Latin food in Chicago while her husband, Vince, manages the wine list and an excellent tequila selection.

Salseria Cantina & Grill
233 S. Wacker Dr., Chicago, IL 60606

Full service Mexican restaurant brought to you by the people behind Taco Fresco and Fuego Loco: Cantine & Salseria. 

Santorini
800 W. Adams St, Chicago, IL 60607

Known in Chicago's Greektown neighborhood for its focus on seafood, Santorini is casual, affordable and tasty. In Chicago, you have to try the saganaki, a.k.a. fried cheese at any Greek restaurant and get ready for a surprise.

Schwa
1466 N. Ashland Ave., Chicago, IL 60622

A crashingly original BYO restaurant headed by Food & Wine Best New Chef Michael Carlson. The surroundings are simple, yet elegant, and the food is of a level with top kitchens practicing avant garde dining mixed with a dose of molecular gastronomy. If that confuses you, this might not be the right experience for you unless you're heartily open to new things.

 

Shor
2233 S. Martin Luther King Drive, Chicago, IL 60616

This classic, Chicago-style grill operates out of the Hyatt Regency McCormick Place. It's a perfect, convenient stop for those attending a convention or a performance at the Arie Crown Theater.

Tapas Las Ramblas
5101 N. Clark St., Chicago, IL 60640

This traditional Spanish tapas restaurant is perfect for kicking back and relaxing. Set in a casual neighborhood away from glitz and glam, feel free to stroll in wearing jeans and a T-shirt and enjoy culture that won't break your wallet. 

Zest
525 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611

This globally influenced contemporary American restaurant is located in the luxurious Intercontinental Chicago hotel.

Pizano's Pizza and Pasta
864 N. State St, Chicago, IL 60610

Pizano's is a relative newcomer to the Chicago pizza scene--they opened in 1991--the Malnati family has been involved with the pizza business since 1943.

Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery
1 W. Grand Ave., Chicago, IL 60610

This Chicago brewpub is an outpost of the nationwide chain; the top draw here is the rotating selection of handcrafted beers brewed on-site.

Rockit Bar & Grill
22 W. Hubbard St., Chicago, IL 60610

Stylish yet comfortable, this River North bar and grill puts a twist on American favorites. Expect to hear some classic rock music as the name implies and take in the old album cover-jacketed menus.

Room 21
2110 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago, IL 60605

Room 21, late-night dining/drinking spot dripping with the mystique of Al Capone and Chicago's old red light district, is the latest outpost from colorful restaurant mogul Jerry Kleiner.