Edition: Kidding Around Chicago

Dining: Grabbing the Toughest Table

Author: Jody Robbins

Just because you want to go to the must-hit restaurant in a city that's full of them doesn't mean you'll be able to do so. Spots like Schwa and Green Zebra can be booked months in advance due to popular demand and, in some cases, dining rooms with limited space.

Getting your reservation comes down to planning and persistence, whether yours or that of your concierge. Chef Concierge Jon Winke, at the Ritz-Carlton Four Seasons Hotel, checks in with top restaurants daily on the length of their wait list and keeps an eye out for last-minute cancellations. "Start calling the restaurant as soon as you know you're coming to Chicago," he says. "If they're already booked, get on the wait list; then, call back regularly and build a relationship with the person answering the phone--let them know you want it."

And, don't be afraid to tell your story, if it's a good one. You're more likely to get an available-at-the-last-minute table if the host/hostess knows it's your 25th wedding anniversary or your birthday.

THE SPOTS

Alinea has been ranked one of the very best restaurants in the entire world thanks to Grant Achatz, a chef known for his knack with molecular gastronomy. From the moment you walk in the door and trip a sensor that opens two large metal doors with a whoosh, you know Alinea is something different. The food bears out the impression with courses like lobster with peas, ramps or mint vapor or short ribs with Guinness, peanut and fried broccoli. "Most people have booked their meal here way in advance; if they've waited on us to do it last-minute, it comes down to pure luck backed up by my relationship with the restaurant ," says Winke, noting that he personally considers this the toughest reservation to make in the city.

Table Fifty-Two is the brainchild of Oprah's personal chef, Art Smith. An ultimate ladies-who-lunch spot, the sophisticated, colorful-yet-muted-tones stand in sharp contrast to the spice-laden, gutsy, Southern-inspired fare. "Table 52 is just impossible to get into," says Yvonne Alton, concierge at the Swissotel Chicago. "It's such a tiny restaurant, so when they are booked, they're booked. Lunch is your best shot." Try "Low-Country Shrimp with Stone Ground Grits" or "Pistachio-Crusted Chicken Breast with Coconut-Ginger-Chili Sauce."

For those who care about the food and the drink, but also about the scene, try Japonais. The dining room is set in a trendy fusion of Asian decorating motifs. Chill out in abundant, over-sized pieces of wicker furniture while enjoying cocktails in the downstairs lounge. "Everybody likes to go here, especially during the summer," says Winke. The year-round, contemporary Japanese cuisine satisfies both sushi eaters and meat lovers (think high-grade tuna next to filet mignon grilled with uni butter).

Two of the most coveted seats these days are at steakhouses: the classic Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse and the modernistic David Burke's Primehouse. Just getting a reservation at Gibson's means you're in the know, and celebrity sightings are almost a sure thing here ("Reservations are tough to get here, but they're very concierge friendly," says Winke). Enjoy prime-grade steaks and a classic accompaniment in the form of the perfect martini - or go for a massive lobster tail if you feel up for it. Meanwhile, at Primehouse, it's all about the beef. New York City chef David Burke bought his own farm in Kentucky to provide steaks at his restaurant, which are dry-aged on the premises in a salt block-lined meat locker. Try a 40-day steak that's been aged longer than usual; if you like strong flavors, like blue cheese, this is for you. 

An equally difficult lunch-time reservation is RL, the restaurant serving the Ralph Lauren store. "RL is the toughest lunch reservation to get in the neighborhood," says Winke. "It's the only restaurant I know of that's harder to get into for lunch than for dinner." The menu here won't leave you gasping for culinary understanding; rather, it's comfort food executed at a high level. Try favorites like the light and healthy tuna nicoise salad or go for the classic "RL Burger." 

RL
115 E. Chicago Ave. , Chicago, IL 60611

Schwa
1466 N. Ashland Ave., Chicago, IL 60622