A Slice of St. Louis

Author: Amy S. Debrecht

Pizza in St. Louis is more than thin crust and Provel cheese.

Despite what you may have heard, St. Louis is not a one-pizza town. From our notorious ultra-thin crust with Provel cheese to deep-dish pies, and from standard if-it-ain't-broke-don't-fix-it ingredients to gourmet toppings, you'll find it all at these locally-owned pizza places.

BALDUCCI'S

Balducci's Winefest (12527 Bennington Place, 314-576-5024) has served pizza to St. Louisans for more than 30 years. This basement restaurant has a cozy pub feel with church pew booths and friendly wooden tables. The 1-inch-plus thick crust has a beery taste, which, coupled with the sweet tomato topping, is simply delicious. They, of course, serve a St. Louis style cracker-thin crust that is flaky and crispy, and while it's not made on site, it serves as a solid "platter" to hold the copious toppings heaped on. I recommend ordering a large thin crust pizza ($15 for deluxe) and a smaller deep dish which is available in sizes as small as 6 inches (roughly $6), and serves as a great appetizer for two. Lots of customers ordered salads, and they looked to be generous plates. The Mayfest with an anchovy-based dressing is a particular favorite.

CAITO'S

At Caito's (414 THF Blvd., 636-530-9222), the friendly front-man duo of Dave Caito, St. and Jr., and Tony Bono serve authentic Sicilian and Italian dishes in a warm and informal atmosphere. Old family photos line the walls, and make you feel as though you're in the Caitos' home dining room. The "spinjuine" pizza is an old Sicilian recipe, and to the owners' knowledge, is not served anywhere else in the U.S. The difference is in the sauce, a meat mixture like that used in lasagna. Choose from St. Louis ultra-thin crust, thick, or deep dish pan. The menu also offers a variety of salads, appetizers, sandwiches, pasta, and dessert. An all-you-can-eat pizza and salad buffet is served M-F from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

THE BLACK THORN

The Black Thorn (3735 Wyoming, 314-776-0534) has been a neighborhood staple for about 13 years. (The bartender asked one of the locals how long the place had been open to confirm her guess!) The crowd is mostly regulars from the neighborhood, but as of late, has grown to include a much larger following; the weekends have become especially busy. On the Wednesday night I went, the place didn't start filling up until about 8 p.m. The menu offers thin crust, pan, or Chicago style. Prices range from $8-$22.75 for varying sizes and crusts. The atmosphre is tres informal - pizza is served on paper plates and the dress is jeans and tee shirts.

JOANIE'S PIZZERIA

Joanie's Pizzeria (2101 Menard, 314-865-1994) is located in Soulard, a popular historic district. The atmosphere is cozy and has a welcoming, neighborhood feel, even if you're not from the neighborhood. In addition to thin and thick crusts, the pizza menu offers something called "double crust," which is like a pie; the toppings (like the filling ina pie) are encased inside the crust. There are specialty pizzas, such as "the Mayor of Soulard Double Graft and Corruption" and "Joanie's Favorite Veggie." Pizzas range in price from roughtly $9-$18. You can also choose from a variety of sandwiches, pastas, salads, and appetizers.

FORTEL'S PIZZA DEN

The family-owned Fortel's Pizza Den (471 N. Kirkwood Rd., 314-822-3488; also 9 other locations) has been a growing establishement in the St. Louis area for 25 years, since Bob Fortel opened his first "den" in 1981. The menu is an introduction to the family, in that each member has a specialty pizza named after him or her; I recommend Jan's Taco Deluxe. Prices for the specialty pizzas range from $11-$18.

DEWEY'S PIZZA

At Dewey's Pizza (124 Kirkwood Rd., 314-821-7474) watch pizzas being made while you wait for your table or your food, or study the immense menu of toppings. They offer lots of unique specialty pizzas, such as the Killer Veggie and Socrates' Revenge, but I recommend building your own pizza with their selection of regular toppings and gourmet itmes. The large pizza with 4 toppings (2 on one half; 2 on the other) was $15. The Harvest Salad (large, about $7) is absolutely scrumptious, but it is a seasonal item. There is an additional location in Unviersity City (559 North and South, 314-726-3434).

Dewey's Pizza
124 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, MO 63122

Dewey's Pizza focuses almost solely on its namesake food, offering specialty pizzas with exotic ingredients you won't get from the standard delivery boys.

Balducci's Winefest
12527 Bennington Pl., Maryland Heights, MO 63146

Grab a glass of wine and enjoy an Italian feast at this small restaurant in the Westport area that serves up Italian and American bites.

Joanie's Pizzeria
2101 Menard St., St. Louis, MO 63104

Joanie's Pizzeria is a top St. Louis eatery for its friendly staff and delicious pizza.

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